Apostle Islands Wisconsin

On Sunday, June 13^th, we traveled the easy 205 miles from Marquette, Michigan, to Bayfield, Wisconsin.  We also traveled from Eastern Daylight Time to Central Daylight Time, and most importantly to the next year of our journey together. Yes, June 13^th is our wedding anniversary – and more important, this was our 40^th anniversary.  This week of the year is always my favorite.  We celebrated our anniversary on Sunday, my birthday on Friday (the 18^th) and Father’s day on Sunday the 20^th.  It doesn’t get any better than this. 

When we set up this trip and all the bookings, we had no idea that we were going to visit all three of the US National Park Service’s National Lakeshores.  We had been aware of Sleeping Bear Dunes in Michigan from a prior visit to Michigan in 2018, and were vaguely aware of Pictured Rocks, but had no idea that the Apostle Islands were also a National Lakeshore, until we arrived. 

The Apostle Islands (https://www.nps.gov/apis/index.htm) are composed of twenty-one islands in Lake Superior just offshore from the Bayfield Peninsula.  Twenty of the islands and a section of mainland containing the Meyer’s Beach Sea Caves are part of the National Lakeshore.  The largest island, Madeline Island, is privately owned, and accessible by ferry.

Our home for this week was the Apostle Islands Area Campground (www.aiacamping.com).  We had a nicely shaded site with cool breezes most of the days.  The owners were very friendly and accommodating.

On Monday, June 14^th, not knowing anything about the area, we visited the chamber of commerce visitor center in Bayfield, coming out loaded with brochures of activities and sites to see.  We had brunch at the Manypenny Bistro (whitefish reuben sandwich very tasty), then walked around Bayfield admiring the marina, the period buildings and doing some people watching.  We had already booked an Apostle Islands Cruise for Tuesday, but Walt decided he wanted to kayak in the sea caves, so he booked a trip with Trek ‘n Trail outfitters (https://trek-trail.com/).

Tuesday, June 15^th was our cruise of the islands (www.apostleisland.com). This was a 55 mile narrated boat tour of Wisconsin’s “Crown Jewels” including lighthouses, standing rocks, sea caves and marine life.  We cruised past Basswood Island, Hermit Island (the home of a solitary resident around 1900), out to Devil’s Island and return via Raspberry Island.  The cruise went past all the islands except Gull Island, not much more that a pile of rocks on the east side of the archipelago, and Eagle Island on the far west side.

Walt spent Wednesday, June 16^thon a full day 9 mile sea kayak trip with Trek ‘n Trail.  Guide Nick, from the southside of Chicago, was a 2^nd year senior at Northwestern University.  Due to Covid, he could not get the classes he needed to graduate, so he spent the winter in Bayfield cutting fish (never do that again he said) and serving as an emergency plumber for frozen pipes.  He’ll return to Northwestern and his journalism major this fall.  Our group was composed of 3 tandem kayaks and Nick in his single.  Trip mates were Mike and Kayla from Minneapolis, Scott and Laura from Madison and Kathleen from Madison.  The water was 51 degrees and wetsuits were required.  We went by van from Bayfield to Meyer’s Beach on the northside of the peninsula.  We kayaked through formations named the Crevasse, Keyhole Arch and the Garage.  Freeze/thaw erosion and the wave action of Lake Superior carved the opening through rock layers that were softer than layers above.  The water was calm and the day bright and sunny.  We paddled 4.5 miles to Lunch Beach, had a lunch catered by Coco’s in Washburn, WI, then paddled back to Meyer’s Beach.  During lunch the wind picked up and there was about a 2 foot chop.  Much more challenging that the trip out.  The waves did highlight the unique sounds of the sea cave formations.  Gurgle, gurgle, gurgle just like a huge washing machine. Walt was tired that night.

On Thursday, June 17^th, we did almost nothing.  Just stayed in the camper and rested.  Martha worked on her crocheting and Walt read a book.

Birthday, Friday, June 18^th, found us back in Bayfield to catch the 9:30 AM ferry to LaPointe on Madeline Island, with both Joon and Bess and our trikes.  We have a Schwinn dog trailer that the puppies ride in.  Pulling 50 pounds of DAWG (Bess 26 & Joon 21) gives Walt a good workout.  Martha trails behind talking to the puppies and keeping them calm.  They are slowing becoming accustomed to traveling this way.  Arriving on the ferry in Lapointe, we rode 6 miles to Bay State Park and out to the Point Picnic Area.  Great views of the lake.  Riding back to Lapointe, the wind was really picking up and we had the pleasure (??) of a hard headwind.  Walt was singing his birthday song for most of the ride “When I’m 64” (Beatles – Sgt Pepper Album).  “Will you still need me, will you still feed me. When I’m 64”. We treated ourselves to lunch at Grampa Tony’s, under shade trees in Adirondack chairs.  We returned to Bayfield on the ferry (cars go on first, then walkers and bikers) and just before departure a giant cement mixer truck pulled on right next to us.  It made for a very noisy return trip.  The waves were about 3 – 5 feet, but the ferry handled them with a problem.

The Bayfield peninsula has many fruit orchards, so we on Saturday, June 19^th we drove the “Fruit Loop”, County Road J, on a loop around Bayfield visiting orchards.  We were a little too early for Strawberrys and Blueberrys and way too early for Apples, but there was lots to see and unique little farm stores to explore.  We admired the Lake Superior view and the huge hat collection hanging from the barn’s inside roof at Hauser’s (superiorviewfarm.com/) and sampled Rhubarb baked delicacies at Erickson’s (www.ericksonorchard.com/). Walt’s mother, Ruth, used to make rhubarb strawberry pie and he takes any opportunity to relive those memories (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhubarb).

On Saturday night, we went to the Lake Superior Big Top Chautauqua concert (www.bigtop.org/).  Nestled at the base of the Mt. Ashwabay Skill Hill, 3 miles south of Bayfield, Big Top has operated since 1986 (except for the covid year of 2020), with a schedule that includes renowned national,regional and touring musicians from mid June to early September.  Past talents such as Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson and B.B. King have played in this place. Walking into this blue canvas theater, the magic overtakes you. The acoustics in this 900-seat venue are breathtaking as the local talent of the Big Top Chautauqua house band, the Blue Canvas Orchestra, amazes you with their talents. This year’s schedule includes such oldies acts as the Ozark Mountain Daredevils and more current celebrities like Garrison Keillor.  Being the first weekend of the season, we heard the venue’s local talent, the Blue Canvas Orchestra along with essayist Michael Parry.  Very entertaining show, especially their finale a rendition of Joe Cocker’s “Feeling Alright”. 

On a very very wet Father’s Day, Sunday, June 20^th, we left Bayfield for Up a Creek Campground (www.upacreekcampground.com/) on Daggett Creek in the Brainerd Lakes District of Central Minnesota.  It rained for the entire 189 miles, totally obscuring the views of Duluth, the harbor and lakeshore.