We did laundry and Walt cleaned our bikes on Sunday, August 1st. The Smoking Waters Mountain Man Rendezvous (www.westyellowstonenet.com/events/smoking_waters_mountain_man_rendezvous.php) was in West Yellowstone from August 1st thru 8th, so we went to visit. There were about 20-25 tents, “Mountain Men & Women” in character and all sorts of authentic western items. We talked a length with a Scotsman who was selling kilts, apparel, books (Walt couldn’t resist A Life Wild & Perilous by Robert Utley) and even authentic root beer. Other craftsmen & women were engaged in their particular craft.
On Monday, August 2nd, we joined guide Adrianna, with Yellowstone Vacation Tours, for a van tour of the North Loop (see map). We drove again through the West Gate and up the Madison River, turned left at Madison Junction and went to the Norris Geyser Basin. We toured the Porcelain Basin and then proceeded up the road toward Mammoth Hot Springs, stopping at Roaring Mountain. This is a slope with many fumaroles, spouting so loudly that you can hear the noise miles away. The water that erupts flows down into the Gibbons River. We bypassed Mammoth Hot Springs and drove to Tower/Roosevelt. This was supposed to be a LOOP tour, but the road from Tower/Roosevelt to Canyon, across Mt. Washburn, has been closed for two years due to construction, so the LOOP tour became an “out and back trip”. We ate lunch at a picnic stop near Tower, then drove out to the Lamar Valley in the extreme northeast part of Yellowstone. In the Lamar Valley we saw a lot of bison. We saw them grazing, rolling in the dirt (the males pee in the dirt, then roll in it and it really arouses the females) and even bulls fighting (charging each other) – really amazing. On the return trip we stopped at Mammoth Hot Springs to see the travertine fall formations. We were traveling in rain on our way back from Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris Geyser Basin and had boulders (about bowling ball size) falling down onto the edge of the highway.
We wanted to go hiking on Tuesday, August 3rd, so we hiked the Riverwalk trail from West Yellowstone to the Madison River, about a 1.25 miles each way. It was a really nice day and we enjoyed the walk.
We decided to relax the morning of Wednesday, August 4th. In the afternoon, we went to the Yellowstone IMAX to see the Yellowstone Movie. It was all about the exploration of the park and the decision to create a National Park – something that had not ever been done before anywhere in the world. Yellowstone became the first National Park in 1872 during the Ulysses Grant presidency. Having no Park Service organization, it was put under the jurisdiction of the US Army, to preserve. With the formation of the National Park Service in 1916, preservation and promotion became the cause. We enjoyed the IMAX so much that we returned that evening to watch the Jungle Cruise Movie with Dwayne Johnson and Emily Blunt. Really well done – classic Disney.
We made our second attempt at 4-wheeling on Thursday, August 5th, renting a side by side CanAm Maverick Trail. UTV’s are not allowed in Yellowstone, but can travel in the Gallatin National Forest. With a paper map from the rental company and a download of the same map (Yellowstone Motorized Trail Map North) on the app, Avenza (www.avenzamaps.com/), we plotted a day long trip up the Lionhead Trail to the northwest of West Yellowstone and the TwoTop Trail to the southwest. The trail started at the west end of West Yellowstone on a dirt road, just to the south of US 20 we were soon traveling a rougher trail. We learned that our vehicle was less than 52 inches wide, so we could access narrow trails. At intersections, there would be a gate across the trail/road, but we could fit to the side of the gate between two posts in the ground. We crossed to the north side of US 20 and started up a very narrow trail toward Lionhead Peak (9,550’). The trail climbed switchbacks and ended up right under the cliff tops of Lionhead. We descended down steep switchbacks, some requiring 3 to 5 point turns to negotiate and crossed to the south of US 20. The next trail took us up, almost to the summit of Two Top Peak. From this viewpoint, actually in Idaho, we could see west to Henry’s Lake and beyond, a great view.
We relaxed on Friday, August 6th, in preparation for going back into Yellowstone very early the next morning.
We went through the west gate before 7:00 AM on Saturday, August 7th, and drove just past the Midway Geyer Basin, ½ way between Madison Junction and Old Faithful, to the Fairy Falls Trail parking lot. Fairy Falls Trail is a 2.5 mile flat hike along the west end of the Midway Geyser Basin for a mile, then 1.5 miles west through a pine forest. The 200’ waterfall is a spectacular view and a very popular trail. Just shy of the falls, we saw a bull bison in the woods scratching himself on pine trees. He was picking on some pretty young pine trees and the trees did not survive the confrontation. We were probably about 50 yards away and were in awe of the bull’s power. They recommend that you get no closer than 50 yards as bison can run really fast and be upon you very quickly. We were out on the trail early, but it became very crowded on our return trip. On the walk back, we hiked up the Grand Prismatic Spring overlook. Walt walked the boardwalk at the Midway Geyser Basin and the view of the Grand Prismatic Spring was not nearly as good. He was impressed with the Excelsior Geyser, once the largest geyser in the world. In the 1880’s it would have violent eruptions up to 300 feet, but these may have caused damage to the silica lining of the geyser and is now a very productive thermal spring discharging more than 4,000 gallons per minute into the Firehole River.
We went through the west gate before 7:00 AM on Saturday, August 7th, and drove just past the Midway Geyer Basin, ½ way between Madison Junction and Old Faithful, to the Fairy Falls Trail parking lot. Fairy Falls Trail is a 2.5 mile flat hike along the west end of the Midway Geyser Basin for a mile, then 1.5 miles west through a pine forest. The 200’ waterfall is a spectacular view and a very popular trail. Just shy of the falls, we saw a bull bison in the woods scratching himself on pine trees. He was picking on some pretty young pine trees and the trees did not survive the confrontation. We were probably about 50 yards away and were in awe of the bull’s power. They recommend that you get no closer than 50 yards as bison can run really fast and be upon you very quickly. We were out on the trail early, but it became very crowded on our return trip. On the walk back, we hiked up the Grand Prismatic Spring overlook. Walt walked the boardwalk at the Midway Geyser Basin and the view of the Grand Prismatic Spring was not nearly as good. He was impressed with the Excelsior Geyser, once the largest geyser in the world. In the 1880’s it would have violent eruptions up to 300 feet, but these may have caused damage to the silica lining of the geyser and is now a very productive thermal spring discharging more than 4,000 gallons per minute into the Firehole River.
On Sunday, August 8th, we left West Yellowstone Grizzly RV Park for a five-day transit of the state of Utah, on our way to Ouray, Colorado. With our two week stays at campgrounds, we have started to experience some reluctance to leave. We had become very comfortable in our “new” home(s) and driving away to another destination was a bit unnerving. However, we’ve learned that each new location has great experiences awaiting us.
Good stuff Martha! Glad to see Fairy Falls flowing this time of year.
Loving your adventures! I will be adding these places to my bucket list.
Happy Trails from the other Martha